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" For
those who journey with faith, it is a rewarding experience,
this simple visitation to a cave-shrine, the home of the
Himalayan mendicant who is both destroyer and healer, the
greatest of the Hindu God"
The
trek from Pahalgam to Amarnathji cave is on an ancient
peregrine route. The 45 - km distance is covered in four days,
with night halts at Chandanwari, Sheshnag (Wawjan) and
Panchtarni. The distance from Pahalgam to Chandanwari (16 km)
is now covered by motor transport. The pilgrims camp here or
at Pahalgam on the first night out. The first day's trek of 13
km from Chandanwari is through spectacular, primeval
countryside. The main centre of attraction on this trek is
Sheshnag, a mountain lake which derives its name from its
seven peaks, resembling the heads of a mythical snake. The
journey to Sheshnag follows steep inclines up the right bank
of a cascading stream and wild scenery untouched by
civilisation.
 The
second night's camp at Wawjan overlooks the deep blue water of
Sheshnag lake, and glaciers beyond it. The lake is also
associated with legends of love and revenge, and at the camp
these are recounted by campfires, to the stillness of a
pine-scented, Himalayan night.
The
second day's 12 km trek steadily gains height, winding up
across Mahagunas Pass at 4,600 m and then descending to the
meadow - lands of Panchtarni, the last camp enroute to the
holy cave.
From
Panchtarni to Amarnathji is only 6 km, but an early morning's
start is recommended for there is a long queue awaiting
entrance to the cave. The same day, following darshan,
devotees can return to Panchtarni in time for lunch, and
continue to Wawjan to spend the fourth night out; or continue
further to Zojibal, returning to Pahalgam on the 4th day.
Entrance to the
cave is regulated, and darshan a hasty affair for there are
many others waiting outside to pay homage before the awesome
Shivalingam. The devotees sing bhajans, chant incantations,
and priests perform aarti and puja, invoking the blessing of
Shiva, the divine, the pure, the absolute.
Trek:
Pahalgam To
Amarnath Cave Via Mahagunas Pass
Main Trek Base:
Altitude: 4,175m
(13,700ft).
Alternative Trek:
Sonamarg To Amarnath
 During
the yatra, stages of the walk are carefully controlled by the
Indian authorities. The first stage of the trek is to
Chandanwadi, the second to Sheshnag and the third over the
Mahagunas Pass to Panchtami. Many pilgrims visit the cave from
Panchtami and return to Sheshnag the same day, walking back to
Pahalgam on the fifth day.
Day 1:
Pahalgam To
Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 4 hours)
The trail leaves Pahalgam on a bitumen road, past the Shankar
temple and along the east Liddar valley. The trail is easy to
follow indeed it is suitable for jeeps as far as Chandanwadi
(2,900m). There are many obvious short cuts on the route, and
a number of tea stalls, as this first Day always seems to be
quite hot. The campsite is in a pleasant glade just before the
main line of tea stalls.
Day 2: Chandanwadi To Sheshnag
(Average walking time 5 to 6 hours)
From Chandanwadi the trail winds steeply for 500m to the
summit of ridge known as Pisu Top (3,390m). From here, there
are commanding views back down the valley to the mountains
beyond Pahalgam. During the main pilgrimage, the tea stall
owners do a thriving business, which keeps the pilgrims going
on the long incline to the next main resting area at Wawajana
(3,550m). From here it is two to three km further to Sheshnag
(3,720m). The glacial lake is set in remarkable surroundings,
its waters reflecting the snow capped peaks of Vishnu, Shiva
and Brahma. Rumour among pilgrims has it that the lake is
inhabited by a serpent of Loch Ness monster proportions, so
it's advisable not to camp too close to the water's edge.
Day 3: Sheshnag To Panchtarni
(Average walking time 6 hours)
The trail gradually ascends from Sheshnag with magnificent
views of the mountains immediately above. The ascent towards
the Mahagunas Pass winds up to a grassy plateau, and from
there on to the pass it is a further hour's climb. The sign at
the top of the pass states the height as 4,270m. It is not a
dramatic pass, but it is still no mean achievement for the
pilgrims, many of whom have never been beyond the Indian
plains before.
The descent to Panchtarni (3,450m) is quite long and tiring,
but there are frequent flowered meadows to rest in and admire.
The campsite can be seen from afar; and behind, on a further
ridge, the bare, treeless mountainscape resembles the terrain
on the far side of the Himalayas. There are more spacious
campsites upstream from the main camping area, and these are
also a little cleaner.
Day 4: Panchtarni To Amarnath Cave &
Return
(Average walking time 5 hours return)
 The
actual time to the cave will depend on whether one's trek
coincides with the main pilgrimage. During the pilgrimage an
early start is essential, with many of the pilgrims move more
steadily and slowly than on the rest of the trek, as if in awe
of their surroundings.
The climb to the Singh Pass (3,850m) is gradual before the
trail enters the Amarnath valley. It descends to a permanently
blackened snow bridge, which fords the Amarvati stream before
ascending the true right back to the base of the mountain.
From here the final ascent is up a series of concrete steps to
the entrance to the Amarnath Cave (4,050m). The J&K police
manning the entrance to the cave only permit a limited number
of pilgrims inside at any one time.
Day 5: Panchtarni To Chandanwadi
(Average walking time 8 hours)
Many pilgrims return from Panchtarni to Chandanwadi in one
day. After completing their pilgrimage to the cave most are
happy to trek as far as they can the following Day.
Day 6: Chandanwadi To Pahalgam
(Average walking time 4 hours)
On the final Day most pilgrims arrive back in the Pahalgam
bazaar with enough time to complete the drive to Srinagar or
Jammu the same day.
ALTERNATE TREK: -
SONAMARG AMARNATH
Although the traditional yatra trek to the Amarnath cave is
from Pahalgam one can also go there from Sonamarg.
Day 1: Sonamarg-Baltal
This 15-km trek takes about five hours and it's an easy walk
since there is little altitude change between Sonamarag and
Baltal. One should be able to get a lift on a truck to the
roadblock, from there on it is better to walk. The roadblock
is closed until noon or later, waiting for traffic to come
across the Zoji la from Ladakh. From the roadblock one can
walk along the river valley track, which is very pleasant. The
river valley track is also 2 to 3-km shorter than the vehicle
road. A military camp is the first sign of Baltal, which can
be reached in a day from Srinagar.
Day 2: Baltal-Amarnath
The 15-km trek to Amarnath climbs over a thousand metres from
Baltal at 2,743 metres to the cave at 4,175 metres and the
walk takes about nine to 10 hours. The route crosses one major
snow bridge over a river and climbs steadily up, crossing the
Satsing pass, 3 ½-km before Amarnath, at 4,115 metres dropping
down and then climbing up again to the cave at 4,175 metres.
There are some tea stalls along the way, even at the river,
and after the junction with the main trail there are even
more.
From Amarnath one can follow the traditional yatra trail down
to Pahalgam.
Option:
Amarnath to Baltal & Sonamarg from the Amarnath cave
return along the pilgrim trail as far as the junction of the
Panchtarni and Amarvati rivers. Here the trails divert, with
the track to Baltal heading down the true right of the valley.
The trail is prone to rock avalanches where it traverses large
scree slopes and one should be wary of descending without
first checking its condition. If there are no problems, the
trek to Baltal can be completed in about four hours.
GETTING
AWAY
Road: From Baltal
there is a regular bus service during the pilgrimage period,
getting back to Srinagar that night. At other times, camp at
Baltal and continue to Sonamarg at a more leisurely pace the
following morning. From Sonamarg there are three buses a day
to Srinagar and the drive takes around five hours. |
