The 18,640 feet high Khardung La pass forms the
divide between the Nubra Valley and Leh .
After crossing the Khardung La, one descends to a place called "Khalsar",
situated on the left bank of the Shyok River. One route bifurcates
towards the Bubra Valley right across whereas the other route follows
the Shyok River towards Dikshit and further towards Turtuk in Pakistan
occupied Kashmir. After crossing the bridge over the Shyok River at
Koyak, the wide and beautiful Nurba Valley starts.
The Settlements
Numerous villages are scattered in the Nubra Valley. In the olden
times Nubra was part of the famous old Central Asian trade route known
as the "Silk Road" along which the trade from Yarkand in Central Asia
and Mongolia was carried out. Over the Karakoram Pass and via the
Bubra Valley came big caravans of traders from Yarkand to Leh and
other parts of India, trading in their famous Yarkandi carpets, wool,
silk and even marijuana.
Ancient Pilgrim Route
People used to go as far as Mecca and Medina in the Middle East for
the Haj pilgrimage via this route. Big caravans of hundreds of horses
and double-humped Yarkandi camels would trek to Kashmir, which was one
of the major trade centres on the route between the Gangetic plains of
India and the high mountainous regions of Central Asia. The
traditional border trade was stopped only in the late 1950s when the
Aksai Chin area came under Chinese control.
Presenting Exotic Himalayan Scenery
Nubra Valley lies about 10,000 ft above sea level and is about 3-4
miles wide. It presents features not seen anywhere else in the
Himalayan valleys. The valley bottom is composed of alluvial sand and
stones over which the river flows in a broad bed with many channels
that leave the main stream at various points and enclose in their
course a number of islands. The river is fed by many tributaries and
streams.
Panamik
At Panamik, a full circle of peaks surrounds the flat sea of the
central plain dotted with villages. Here lies a valley cut off
from the world -- a hidden secret land of Nubra. Mountains rise
on both sides abruptly from the valley in great masses, forming
walls of solid rock broken only by narrow side gorges that
strike directly into the heart of the range, dividing the facing
wall into enormous sections. The gorges have formed perfectly
and symmetrical "fans" radiate out broadly from the narrow
openings and extend to the middle of the valley or beyond. On
these "fans" are situated the villages, scattered throughout the
valley at fertile spots. The hot water spring at Panamik is
always inviting to the trekkers and makes a very good camping
ground.
A Valley Of Wide Open Spaces
The Nubra River originates from the Siachen glacier in the
northwest and the Terong glacier in the east. It meets the Shyok
River at Lunghzhung. High barren mountains on both sides flank
the wide-open valley. The area is rugged and barren with steep
cliffs, but down the valley there is greenery with some forests
at riverbed level.
The bottom of the valley gradually ascends to Changlung (Susoma)
at 11,000 ft. Between Panamik and Changlung there is a long trek
over sand interspersed with rocky debris, a wilderness with
several large granite boulders, rounded by glacial action, whose
smooth surfaces are covered with skilfully carved "Om Mani" and
other Buddhist prayers.
Susoma is a small dwelling place at the confluence of Nubra and
Tulimpati Chu. It originates from the Siachen Kangri glacier.
Nubra forms a wide glaciated valley. There is hardly any
habitation beyond this point and it is a long dry riverbed with
high barren rocky mountains on both sides with lofty snow peaks.
The Tulimpati Chi comes from the Saser glacier. The Teram Kangri
group of peaks dominates the western side.
